EPA ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS

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• Asbestos
• Formaldehyde
• Household hazardous wastes
• Lead-Based Paint
• Radon

ASBESTOS

Asbestos is a generic term which describes a group of diverse, naturally occurring, fibrous minerals. These minerals occur as bundles of strong, flexible fibers which are chemically inert, do not burn, and have good insulating properties.

Asbestos has been used in many products found in the home to provide insulation, strength, and fire protection. In 1989, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (USEPA) announced a phased ban of asbestos products to be completed by 1996.

The most common items in the home which may contain asbestos are:

• Vinyl flooring.
• Duct wrapping on heating and air conditioning systems.
• Insulation on hot water pipes and boilers, especially in homes built from 1920 to 1972.
• Some roofing, shingles, and siding.
• Ceiling and wall insulation in some homes built or remodeled between 1945 and 1978.
• In sheetrock taping compounds and some ceiling materials.

Asbestos which has been sprayed on ceilings often has a spongy, “cottage cheese” appearance with irregular soft surfaces. Asbestos troweled on walls has a textured, firm appearance. Information on the asbestos content of home products can be provided by the manufacturers. Qualified inspectors can be hired to identify asbestos in the home.

Intact or sealed (painted or taped over) asbestos is not harmful unless it becomes friable. Friable means the material can be easily crushed or pulverized to a powder by hand pressure. Friable materials have a higher potential to release fibers. Asbestos fibers that are released into the air and inhaled can accumulate in the lungs and pose a health risk. This risk can be divided into two general categories: 

1. Risk of asbestosis.
2. Increased risk of cancer.

Most persons diagnosed with asbestosis have been exposed to asbestos in the work place.
Therefore this article focuses on the increased risk of cancer associated with asbestos exposure.

The USEPA classifies asbestos as a known human carcinogen. If asbestos fibers are inhaled, the likelihood of contracting lung cancer or mesothelioma (cancer of the lining of the chest or abdomen) increases. As more asbestos is inhaled, the risk of developing cancer further increases. Smokers who are exposed to high levels of asbestos have a much greater risk of developing lung cancer than non-smokers exposed to the same level. Symptoms of cancer may not develop until 10 to 40 years after the first exposure.

In theory, inhalation of one fiber of asbestos can increase the risk of developing cancer. However, from a practical standpoint this statement is misleading since breathing ambient air in an urban area results in the inhalation of about 20,000 asbestos fibers per day As a result of this exposure to asbestos in ambient air for a lifetime, it is estimated that 3-30 cases of lung cancer and 4-24 cases of mesothelioma will occur for every one million Americans. Those cancer cases are in addition to the numerous lung cancer cases due to other causes, particularly smoking.  Obviously, inhalation of additional asbestos fibers increases the risk of developing lung cancer and unnecessary exposure should be avoided.

When asbestos is suspected to be present in building materials, it is important to have the materials tested by a qualified laboratory. Visual inspection alone is not enough to identify the presence of asbestos. However, such testing may not be warranted if the material is in good condition, in which case it is best to leave it in place. If the material is damaged, or will be disturbed during normal household activities or remodeling, it should be tested.

Repair or removal of the asbestos by the homeowner may be unwise if the damage is severe, since it may result in unnecessary exposure to airborne fibers. However small repairs of pipe or duct insulation can be made with paint or duct tape. Other materials such as sprayed-on acoustical ceilings are not easily repaired by the homeowner. In cases where planned remodeling projects are expected to damage asbestos containing materials, it is wise to hire a qualified contractor to remove the material. The homeowner should use the following guidelines in choosing a qualified contractor:

• Check to see if the contractor is licensed by the Oregon Contractors’ State License board.
• Be aware that some contractors may remove material in an unsafe manner and still charge a substantial fee.
• Require references from the contractor and check them to see if the contractor’s work has been satisfactory.
• Require the contractor to specify his safety procedures in writing.

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FORMALDEHYDE

Formaldehyde is a colorless, pungent gas which is soluble in water and most organic solvents. It is used as a raw material in the manufacture of paints, plastics, resins, photographic materials, and in building materials such as fiberboard and some foam insulation. Formaldehyde is found in the outdoor air at levels ranging from about 0.0002 to 0.050 parts per million. (ppm) one ppm can be compared to one cent in ten thousand dollars.

Formaldehyde concentrations may range from 0.01 to 0.50. Concentrations of formaldehyde inside mobile homes are somewhat higher than those found in conventional homes.

Formaldehyde is emitted from products in which formaldehyde has been used in their manufacture. These include pressed-wood products, urea-formaldehyde foam used in insulation, and curtain and upholstery textiles treated with formaldehyde resins for crease resistance. Formaldehyde may also be emitted from improperly vented gas stoves and kerosene heaters. Pressed-wood products are probably the most significant source of formaldehyde in the home.

Pressed-wood products contain resins to bind together wood or wood products such as wood chips. The two most commonly used resins are urea-formaldehyde and phenol-formaldehyde. Pressed wood products used within the home include:

• Particleboard, used for subflooring, shelving, and in furniture.
• Hardwood and plywood paneling, used in furniture and as a wall covering.
• Medium density fiberboard, used as cabinet doors, table tops, and shelving.
• Waferboard and softwood plywood, for exterior use and subflooring, (both are manufactured using phenol-formaldehyde resins.

Of these products, medium density fiberboard typically has the highest formaldehyde emission rate.

In the production of the resins, not all formaldehyde is bound as urea-formaldehyde or phenol-formaldehyde. Unbound or free formaldehyde can be released later as a gas from pressed-wood. Formaldehyde emissions are highest from new products and decrease as the product ages. Emissions ordinarily decrease to undetectable levels over time. If properly manufactured, pressed-wood products which incorporate phenol-formaldehyde resins do not release significant amounts of formaldehyde. Urea-formaldehyde resins have higher emission rates than phenol-formaldehyde resins.

Urea-formaldehyde foam insulation (UFFI) was installed in the wall cavities of some homes during the 1970’s and has been used in the manufacture of mobile homes. The Consumer Products Safety Commission banned the use of UFFI in homes and schools in 1982. Although this ban has been removed by a Federal Court for procedural reasons, UFFI is not currently being installed in homes and schools.

Formaldehyde emissions from UFFI decline with time. Thus, in homes where UFFI was installed prior to 1982, formaldehyde concentrations are generally comparable to those in homes without UFFI.

U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (USEPA) classifies formaldehyde as a probably carcinogen. This means that there is sufficient data from animal studies, and limited data from human studies, to conclude that formaldehyde is likely to cause cancer in humans. Regulation of carcinogens is based on the assumption that any exposure to a carcinogen carries with it a finite risk of developing cancer. This assumption has not been proven scientifically, but was adopted as conservative regulatory policy to protect the health of the general public. As a consequence, risk is assumed to vary directly with exposure. As exposure decreases, risk decreases as well.

Levels of formaldehyde can be measured by chemical analysis of air samples. The usefulness of air monitoring for a short time, for example over 24 hours, is limited because levels of formaldehyde change with temperature, humidity, and ventilation, and decline as the products age. A useful indicator of the presence of indoor formaldehyde is knowledge of the formaldehyde content of products. This information can be obtained from the manufacturer.

Most persons experience eye and throat irritation when exposed to formaldehyde at levels above 0.1 ppm. Because people differ in their sensitivity to toxic effects, it is difficult to precisely define a concentration of formaldehyde that would be harmless to all people under all circumstances. Levels in the outside air may be considered as the safest and lowest levels which can practicable be achieved in the home.

Immediate measures to reduce levels of indoor formaldehyde levels include opening windows to increase ventilation and reducing the number of new pressed-wood products with products made from solid wood or non-wood materials. Formaldehyde emissions increase with increasing humidity and temperature. Therefore, reducing the temperature and humidity in the home will reduce formaldehyde levels.  Where the source of formaldehyde is wood paneling or subflooring, these measures may not be adequate. In this case, removal of paneling and subflooring may be necessary.

See: www.epa.gov/iaq/pubs/hpguide.html#formaldehyde

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HOUSEHOLD HAZARDOUS WASTE

Although generation of hazardous wastes is associated with industrial processes, each year homeowners discard tons of hazardous wastes in trash cans or down their drains. To determine whether a product is hazardous, ask these questions.

• Is it poisonous when ingested, touched, or inhaled?
• Does it ignite easily?
• Is it corrosive?
• Could an explosion occur if it is improperly stored, spilled, or mixed with other products?

 

If the answer to any of these questions is “yes”, then the product is hazardous. Generally, information about a product’s hazardous properties can be found on the container label. The words caustic, flammable, toxic and ignitable indicate that the product is hazardous. Some products are hazardous in more than one way. For example, bleach is poisonous gas. Other example, bleach is poisonous and when mixed with ammonia-based cleaners releases hydrazine, a poisonous gas. Other examples of household products which are hazardous are listed below. In many cases, non-hazardous materials can be used instead.

• Cleaning products: ammonia, drain cleaners, rug cleaners, oven cleaners, metal polishes, and bleaches.
• Garden supplies: weed and insect killers, rat poison, fertilizer, charcoal lighters, kerosene, and gasoline.
• Automotive supplies:  antifreeze, motor oil, gasoline, batteries, and brake fluid.
• Paint supplies:  Paint, varnish, paint removers, glues, and waxes.

 

Safe storage of hazardous products requires a cool, dry, and secure location. Places to store hazardous products include locked cupboards, locked drawers, or a high shelf out of reach of children and pets. To prevent spillage during an earthquake, shelves should be firmly secured to the wall and have a restraining bar along the side. The following guidelines will help in the proper storage of household hazardous products.

• Sort the products into hazardous waste categories (i.e. poisonous, flammable, corrosive, and reactive) and store them as separate categories. For example, flammable products such as charcoal lighter and waste oil should be stored apart from corrosive products such as drain cleaner and acid batteries. It is important to store reactive products in separate locations. Thus, bleach and ammonia-based cleaner should be stored in separate cupboards so that if a spill does occur, mixing and release of poisonous gas is avoided.
• Poisonous products should always be stored apart from other products.
• Labels should be legible and securely affixed to the container.
• Where possible, products should be stored in the original container in order to avoid reaction with incompatible products.

 

• Containers should be tightly sealed and regularly inspected for deterioration. Where rust or leaking is observed, the deteriorating container should be placed inside a larger container and clearly labeled.

The best way to dispose of household hazardous wastes is to sort them into categories according to their hazardous properties and take them to the nearest community household hazardous waste collection center. Unused supplies of hazardous products should not be disposed of by pouring them down the drain, onto land, or by burning. Waste motor oil and used batteries can be recycled and should be taken to a recycling center.

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LEAD BASED PAINT AWARENESS

Are you planning on buying, renting or renovating a home built before 1978?
Many homes and apartments built before 1978 have paint that contains high levels of lead (called lead based paint).  Lead from paint, chips, and dust can pose serious health hazards if not taken care of properly.

Properties for rent:  LANDLORDS MUST DISCLOSE ANY KNOWN INFORMATION 
                                 ON LEAD-BASED PAINT HAZARDS BEFORE LEASE CAN
                                 TAKE EFFECT. LEASES MUST CONTAIN A DISCLOSURE
                                  ABOUT- LEAD BASED PAINT.

Properties for sale:  SELLERS MUST DISCLOSE KNOWN INFORMATION ON
                                 LEAD-BASED PAINT AND HAZARDS BEFORE SELLING A
                                 HOUSE BUILT BEFORE 1978.  SALES CONTRACTS MUST
                                 INCLUDE A DISCLOSURE ABOUT LEAD-BASED PAINT.
                                 BUYERS HAVE UP TO 10 DAYS TO CHECK FOR LEAD.

IMPORTANT

• FACT: Lead exposure can harm young children and babies even before they are born. 
• FACT: Even children who seem healthy can have high levels of lead in their bodies.
• FACT:  People can get lead in their bodies by breathing or swallowing lead dust, or by eating soil or paint chips containing lead.
• FACT: People have many options for reducing lead hazards. In most cases, lead- Based paint that is in good condition is not a hazard.
• FACT: Removing lead-based paint improperly can increase the danger to your Family.

HOW DOES LEAD GET INTO A BODY?

1. Breathing in lead dust. (Especially during renovations that disturb painted surfaces.
2. Putting your hands or other objects covered with lead dust in your mouth.
3. Eating paint chips or soil that contains lead.

 

LEAD IS MORE DANGEROUS TO CHILDREN UNDER SIX!

1. At this age children’s brains and nervous systems are more sensitive to the damaging effects of lead.
2. Children’s growing bodies absorb more lead.
3. Babies and young children often put their hands and other objects in their mouths.

these objects can have lead dust on them.

DANGEROUS TO WOMEN OF CHILDBEARING AGE!!!

1.  Women with a high lead level in their system prior to pregnancy would expose   
                  A fetus to lead through the placenta during fetal development.

POSSIBLE EFFECT FROM EVEN LOW LEVEL LEAD EXPOSURE

Even a low level exposure to lead can severely harm children and cause:

• Nervous system and kidney damage.
• Learning disabilities, attention deficit disorder, and decreased intelligence.
• Speech, language, and behavior problems.
• Poor muscle coordination.
• Decreased muscle and bone growth.
• Hearing damage.

 

While low-lead exposure is most common, exposure to high levels of lead can have devastating effects on children, including seizures, unconsciousness, and, in some cases, death.  Although children are especially susceptible to lead exposure, lead can be dangerous for adults too.

In adults, lead can cause:

• Increased chance of illness during pregnancy.
• Harm to a fetus, including brain damage or death.
• Fertility problems in men and women.
• High blood pressure.
• Digestive problems.
• Nerve disorders.
• Memory and concentration problems.
• Muscle and joint pain.

 

WHERE IS LEAD BASED PAINT FOUND?

1. In homes and apartments built before 1978. Public and private.
2. In homes in the city, suburbs, or country.
3. Inside and outside of the home, including in the soil around a home. Soil can be

contaminated by exterior paint or other sources such as past use of leaded gasoline.

HOW TO CHECK YOUR FAMILY FOR LEAD POISONING

If your home has paint in poor condition or was built before 1978 you should have your home tested and fix any hazards you may have. Also, consult your doctor for advice on testing your child.  A simple blood test can detect high levels of lead. Blood tests are usually recommended for:

1. Children at ages one and two.
2. Children or other family members who hae been exposed to high levels of lead.
3. Children who should be tested under your state or local health screening plan.

 

Your doctor can explain what the test results mean and if more testing will be needed.

IDENTIFYING LEAD HAZARDS:

Lead-based paint I usually not a hazard if it is in good condition, and it is not on an impact or friction surface, like a window.  It is defined by the federal government as paint with lead levels greater than or equal to 1.0 milligram per square centimeter, or more than 0.5% by weight.

Deteriorating lead-based paint (peeling, chipping, chalking, cracking or damaged) is a hazard and needs immediate attention. It may also be a hazard when found on surfaces that children can chew or that get a lot of wear-in-tear, such as:

• Windows and window sills.
• Doors and door frames.
• Stairs, railings, banisters, and porches.

 

LEAD DUST can form when lead-based paint is scraped, sanded, or heated. Dust also forms when painted surfaces bump or rub together. Lead chips and dust can get on surfaces and objects that people touch. Settled lead dust can re-enter the air when people vacuum, sweep, or walk through it. The following two federal standards have been set for lead hazards in dust:

40 micrograms per square foot and higher for floors including carpeted floors.
250 micrograms and higher for interior window sills.
               
  LEAD IN SOIL can be a hazard when children play in bare soil or when people bring soil into the house on their shoes. The following two federal standards have been set for lead hazards in residential soil.

            400 parts per million (ppm) and higher in play areas of bare soil.
            1,200 ppm (average) and higher in bare soil in the remainder of the yard.

The only way to find out if paint, dust and soil lead hazards exist is to test for them.

CHECKING YOUR HOME FOR LEAD

You can have your home tested for lead in several different ways:

• A paint inspection will tell you whether your home has lead-based paint and where it is located. It won’t tell you whether or not your home currently has lead hazards.
• A  risk assessment tells you if your home currently has any lead hazards from lead in paint, dust, or soil. It also tells you what actions to take to address any hazards.
• A combination risk assessment and inspection tells you if your home has any lead hazards and if your home has any lead-based paint, and where the lead based paint is located.

 

Hire a trained and certified testing professional who will use a range of reliable methods when testing your home.

• Visual inspection of paint condition and location.
• A portable x-ray fluorescence machine. (XRF)
• Lab tests of paint, dust, and soil samples.

 

There are state and federal programs in place to ensure that testing is done safely, reliably, and effectively.  Contact your state or local agency. 1-800-424-5323 for a list of contacts in your area. Also, home test kits for lead are available, but may not always be accurate, and consumers should not rely on these kits before doing any renovations or to assure safety.

HOW YOU CAN PROTECT YOUR FAMILY

If you suspect that your house has lead hazards, you can take some immediate steps to reduce your family’s risk:

• If you rent, notify your landlord of peeling or chipping paint.
• Clean up paint chips immediately.
• Clean floors, window frames, window sills, and other surfaces weekly. Use a mop or sponge with warm water and a general all-purpose cleaner or a cleaner made specifically for lead. REMEMBER: NEVER MIX AMMONIA AND BLEACH PRODUCTS TOGETHER SINCE THEY CAN FORM A DANGEROUS GAS.
• Thoroughly rinse sponges and mop heads after cleaning dirty or dusty areas.
• Wash children’s hands often, especially before they eat and before nap time and bed time.
• Keep play areas clean. Wash bottles, pacifiers, toys, and stuffed animals regularly.
• Keep children from chewing window sills or other painted surfaces.
• Clean or remove shoes before entering your home to avoid tracking in lead from soil.
• Make sure children eat nutritious, low-fat meals high in iron and calcium, such as spinach and dairy products. Children with good diets absorb less lead.

 

 In addition to day-to-day cleaning and good nutrition:

• Temporarily reduce lead hazards by taking actions such as repairing damaged painted surfaces and planting grass to cover soil with high lead levels. These actions are interim controls and not permanent solutions, and

      will need ongoing attention.

• To permanently remove lead hazards, you should hire a certified lead “abatement” contractor. Abatement, or permanent hazard elimination methods include removing, sealing, or enclosing lead-based paint with special materials. Just painting over the hazard with regular paint is not a permanent removal.

 

Always hire a person with special training for correcting lead problems. Someone who will do the work safely and has the proper equipment to clean up thoroughly.
Certified contractors will employ qualified workers and follow strict safety rules as set by their state or by the federal government.

Once the work is completed, dust cleanup activities must be repeated until testing indicates that dust levels are below the following:

• 40 micrograms per square foot.
• 250 micrograms for interior window sills, and
• 400 for window troughs.

 

Call your state or local agency for help in locating certified professionals in your area, and to see financial assistance is available.

REMODELING A HOME WITH LEAD-BASED PAINT

• Have the area tested for lead-based paint.
• Do not use a belt-sander, propane torch, high temperature heat gun, dry scraper or dry sandpaper to remove lead-based paint. These actions create large amounts of lead dust and fumes.  Lead dust can remain in your home long after the work is done.
• Temporarily move your family, especially children and pregnant women out of the home or apartment until the work is done and the area is properly cleaned. If you can’t move your family, at least seal off the work area.
• If you have already completed renovations or remodeling that could have released lead-based paint or dust, have your young children tested and follow the above suggestions.

 

OTHER SOURCES OF LEAD

• DRINKING WATER. Your home might have plumbing with lead or lead solder. Call your local health department or water supplier to find out about testing your water. You cannot see, smell, or taste lead, and boiling your water will not get rid of lead. If you think your plumbing might have lead in it:

Use only cold water for drinking and cooking.
Run water for 15 to 30 seconds before drinking it, especially if you have not used your water for a few hours.
           
THE JOB. If you work with lead, you could bring it home on your hands or clothes. Shower and change clothes before coming home. Launder your work clothes separately from the rest of your family’s clothes.

Old painted TOYS and FURNITURE.

Food and liquids stored in LEAD CRYSTAL or LEAD-GLAZED POTTERY OR PORCELAIN.

LEAD SMELTERS or other industries that release lead into the air.

HOBBIES that use lead, such as making pottery or stained glass, or refinishing furniture.

FOLK REMEDIES that contain lead, such as “greta” and “azarcon”  used to treat an upset stomach.

LEAD AWARENESS FOR LANDLORDS
Protect your tenants and your investment

All of the above applies with these added LANDLORD’S LEGAL REQUIREMENTS.

Lead paint disclosure
Landlords are required to:

1.  Disclose to the tenant any known lead-based paint in housing built before     
      1978.
2.  Give the tenant the EPA pamphlet: Protect your family from lead in your
      Home.
3.   Obtain the tenants written acknowledgment of the disclosure and pamphlet.
4.   Keep a record of the transaction for three years.

Pre-renovation notice.
             Landlords are required to:

• Notify tenants in advance of renovation or maintenance on housing built     

before 1978.

• Give the tenant the EPA pamphlet, Protect your family from lead in your

home.

• Keep a record of the transaction for three years.

Lead-safe renovation.

Landlords are required to use specific lead-safe work procedures in Section 8 rental housing. The state of Oregon also requires all professionals who disturb lead-based paint to have a paint permit.

TIPS FOR A LEAD-SAFE PROPERTY

1.  Develop and use a plan to deal with lead-paint.

• Know where lead paint is and address hazards promptly.
• Keep paint in good condition and pay special attention to areas where painted surfaces may rub together, such as doors, windows and stairs.
• Test water and soil for lead.
• Use clearance testing to make sure units are safe for tenants. (see below)
• Keep records of all work done in units with lead paint.

 

WHAT IS A CLEARANCE TEST?

A clearance test is a method of determine if an area has a safe level of lead. A licensed technician takes dust-wipe samples from horizontal surfaces or takes soil samples. The samples are then analyzed to determine the amount of lead in them. Federal clearance standards vary for different room fixtures and for bare soil areas.

2. Train staff to use lead safe work practices.

 

• Include specific lead-safe work practices in operations and maintenance.
• Familiarize staff with procedures for lead-safe management.
• Train maintenance staff to use lead safe work practices.
• Attend a free lead-safe work practices training by contacting the DHS Lead-Based Paint Program.

3. Hire only contractors who have been trained in lead-safe work practices. The DHS Lead-Based Paint Program can provide you with a list of questions to ask your contractor.

 

4. Educate tenants about what they can do to reduce exposure to lead paint hazards.

• Wet wipe regularly around and near windows, especially countertops and children’s play areas.
• Practice good nutrition.
• Make sure children play only where the soil is known to be lead-safe.
• Report peeling or cracking paint to the building manager.
• Give all tenants a copy of the pamphlet lead awareness for tenants. Available thru DHS Lead-based paint program.

 

LEAD AWARENESS FOR TENANTS

Ask your landlord for a copy of, “Lead Awareness for Tenants” brochure.
Make sure you read the entire article above. Especially the landlords legal
requirements to you the tenant. If you live in a home which was built prior to
1978 the landlord is required to give you a copy of the pamphlet  about lead-
based paint called, “Protect your family from lead in your home”. They must
also provide you with any information they may have about any lead paint in
the house or apartment you are renting. This information must be given to you
every time there is a change in your rental status, such as an increase in the rent
or signing a new lease. Your landlord is not required to do any testing to find
lead paint.      

Pre-renovation notice. If you rent housing built before 1978, you must be
Given notice before a fix-up project begins. This requirement also applies to common areas, such as hallways and lobbies.

Lead-safe renovation.  If you live in publically owned or Section 8 housing
built before  1978, remodeling and maintenance work must be done lead-safe.
This is a U.S. Dept.  of Housing and Urban Development requirement. The
state of Oregon also requires all professionals who disturb lead-based paint to have a paint permit.

 

TIPS FOR A LEAD-SAFE HOME

• Report Lead-paint hazards to your landlord.
• Work Lead-safe.
• Keep children lead-safe.
• Regularly wash children’s hands, toys, pacifiers and anything they may put in their mouths.
• Feed your children foods high in iron and calcium such as milk, fortified cereals, dark green vegetables, and beans.
• If your children play in the dirt, especially next to a building, make sure it’s lead-safe.

 

• Have your child’s blood lead level tested by a health care provider if they:
• Live in or regularly visit a home, child care of other building built before 1950 or buildings built before 1980 with recent or ongoing painting, repair, remodeling or damage.
• Have a sibling, relative, housemate or playmate with lead poisoning.
• Spend time with an adult who works with lead.
• Use pottery or ceramics made in other countries, lead crystal or pewter for cooking,  storing or serving food or drink.
• Use home remedies or cosmetics such as Azarcon, Alarcon, Greta, Rueda, Pay-loo-ah or Kohl.
• Have been adopted from, lived in or visited a foreign country in the last 6 months.
• Watch for other lead hazards not mentioned above.

Hobbies involving lead:
Stained glass.
Target shooting.
Casting bullets, lead shot or sinkers.

                                                FOR MORE INFORMATION

National Lead Information Center
1-800-5323
www.epa.gov/lead and www.hud.gov/offices/lead

EPA’s  Safe Drinking Water Hotline
1-800-426-4791

Consumer Product Safety Hotline
1-800-638-2772
www.cpsc.gov

Hearing Impaired
1-800-877-8339

EPA Regional Offices
US EPA Region 10-Oregon
Toxics Section WCM-128
1200 6th Ave
Seattle, Wa. 98101-1128
206-553-1985

CPSC Regional Offices
Western Regional Center
1301 Clay St. Suite 610-N
Oakland, Ca 94612
510-637-4050

HUD Lead Office
US Dept. of Housing and Urban Development
Office of Healthy Homes and Lead Hazard Control
451 Seventh St. SW,   P3206
Washington, DC  20410
202-755-1785

Lead-Based Paint Program
800 NE Oregon St.  Suite 608
Portland, Or  97232
971-673-0440

LeadLine at 503-988-4000 (Portland)
www.oregon.gov/ph/ leadpaint

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RADON

Radon is a naturally occurring radioactive gas which is formed from radioactive decay of radium and uranium. Since radon cannot be seen, tasted, or smelled, special instruments are necessary for its detection. The unit of measurement for radon is picocuries per liter of air. (pCi/L)

Radon is typically present in rocks containing uranium such as certain granites and shales. The amount of radon that can enter soils and ground water depends on the concentrations of uranium in the underlying rock. Radon can also be found in the air at very low concentrations. Radon can also enter and concentrate in homes and buildings. In the United States, the average level indoors is 1.5 pCi/L, but radon levels have been found to range from 0.25 to over 3,000 pCi/L.

The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (USEPA) classifies radon as a known human carcinogen. Long-term exposure to high levels of radon may increase a person’s risk of lung cancer. It is believed that tobacco smokers who are exposed to high radon levels account for a large percentage of the lung cancer deaths believed to be associated with radon exposure in the United States. Therefore, the risk is substantially less for non-smokers.

Exposure to radon does not result in any immediate symptoms. For example, it does not result in acute respiratory effects such as colds or allergies. Any cancer resulting from inhaling radon is not likely to arise for at least 20-30 years after exposure begins and both the level of exposure and duration of exposure are factors which determine the risk of developing lung cancer.

The main source of radon is the soil from which radon gas enters the home through cracks and openings in concrete slabs, crawl spaces, floor drains, sumps, and the many tiny pores in hollow-walls concrete blocks. When the pressure within a home is lowered, more radon can be drawn from the soil and enter the home. Indoor air pressure may be lower during the colder months when heated air rises from the floor level to the ceiling or second level in the house. Indoor pressure may also be lowered in tightly sealed houses through use of exhaust fans such as those in many kitchens and bathrooms.

If radon is present in tap water, it can be released when water is used indoors, such as by showering, washing dishes, or washing clothes. Water as a source of radon is of most concern when water is obtained directly from a well that draws water from a source exposed to uranium and radium. Most of the radon in water obtained from a surface source, such as a reservoir or well water stored in an open tank, has been released before it reaches the home. Building materials are not a significant source of radon except where they incorporate rocks rich in radium or uranium, which are most often granite and shales.

 

Generally, the living area closest to the soil surface has the highest level of radon. Upper stories have lower levels of radon.  Consequently, radon is rarely a concern in high rise apartment buildings, other than at ground level.

Because of the variability of the uranium content of soil and differences in house construction and use, it cannot be assumed that houses in the same neighborhood have the same radon levels. In order to determine radon levels in any particular house, measurements must be made.

Although there is a consensus that the greater the exposure to radon the greater the risk of developing lung cancer, there is insufficient data to define a radon level which is harmless. Both the length of time during which radon is inhaled and the level of radon in the air are important in determining the risk of developing lung cancer. It is also believed that smoking may be a large contributing factor to lung disease associated with radon exposure.

The level of radon in a house can be measured by several types of passive radon detectors. Passive detectors are devices left in place for a period of time that require no ongoing activity or power. To obtain accurate results, the homeowner should carefully follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Although short-term measurements of radon levels are more convenient, health risk can be more accurately determined from measurements made over a year.

The USEPA publishes a list of those companies which it has determined are proficient in the analysis of the measurement devices used to measure radon.

The USEPA recommends that homeowners should attempt to reduce radon levels in any home that has an annual average level of radon over 4 pCi/L. The mitigation method chosen will depend on the construction of the house, extent of radon reduction required, and cost. After installing a mitigation system, it is recommended that radon levels be monitored at regular intervals to verify that the mitigation remains effective.

A qualified contractor should install the radon mitigation system unless the homeowner fully understands the principles of the mitigation system.

When indoor levels of radon exceed after installing a mitigation system, it is recommended that radon levels be monitored at regular intervals to verify that the mitigation remains effective.

A qualified contractor should install the radon mitigation system unless the homeowner fully understands the principles of the mitigation system.

When indoor levels of radon exceed pCi/L, homeowners should consider a water test. If the water comes from a water system, information about the source of the water and any radon tests done on it can be obtained from the water company which supplies the water.

If the water comes from a private well, the radon concentration may be measured by analyzing a water sample at a laboratory certified to test for radon in water.  Homeowners should consult a county health office or local water district for guidance on the type of water analysis appropriate to the area and well type. It must be emphasized that the method of sample collection is critical.

Radon levels in water can be reduced by 99   percent by installation of a granular activated carbon unit (GAC) on the water line entering the house. As radon accumulates in the GAC unit, the unit becomes radioactive as the radon decays.  Thus GAC units installed to remove radon in household water must be shielded or located in areas remote from the house to protect occupants from radiation.  The GAC filters also require special handling during replacement and disposal. Aeration may also be used to remove radon from water. This technique may be more costly but avoids the problem of radiation build up. Both GAC units and aeration devices should be installed by contractors who are listed in the “USEPA Proficiency Report” as meeting the requirements of the USEPA Radon Contractors’ Proficiency Program.

EPA
811 SW 6th Ave Ste 3
Portland, OR 97204-1334
503-326-3205.1
www.epa.gov

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